In September, Criss’ sister came to Albania for a 5-day visit before she spent a week in London. We were a bit concerned about being able to fill the time. As we planned activities, it seemed we could have a very full 4 days, but it was hard to fill the fifth day and there was not time to do a longer trip to some of the more interesting places south. Those fears proved to be unfounded and next time we will recommend a longer stay so we can explore a lot of areas with a couple of overnight trips. Especially with the conversion rate today, Albania is truly a bargain, once you get here.

The first day was an easy day to allow for recovery from the airline trip. We stayed in Durrës and visited the museum, amphitheatre and explored the town. That doesn’t sound like much, but remember, when you are out and have a guest, everyone you meet wants to take you out for a coffee and so it getting to the museum in the morning and the amphitheatre in the afternoon was a full schedule.

While at the museum, we met a tour guide who did private tours and he was taking a group of three men to Apollonia and the Berat the next day and offered to take us with them. We would have to make our own arrangements to stay in Berat or return. This was a great opportunity. We had planned on going to Berat, but expected to take the bus and it is very difficult or expensive to get to Apollonia without a private car. So we were glad to have the opportunity.

Of the two, Berat offers more to the tourist. You get to see fortified city within the castle walls and great view of the surrounding river valley. The old Byzantine church is one of the more interesting structures.

We caught the 4:30 bus back to Durrës. It left at 5:10 and we were home by 7pm. It was a good day thanks to Ardi with Albanian European Transport, the owner and driver. (I hope you don’t mind a little advertising in our blog). It would have been completely impossible to see all we saw without him.

After the long day Saturday, we had an easy day on Sunday. After church, we climbed the hill up to the tower overlook of the old citadel for a great overview of the city. In fact it had rained a couple of days before Tina arrived and the air was as clear as we have ever seen here.

Below in the shot of the old wall, you can see the old wall to the left of the mosque and three of the ancient towers.

Down the back side of the hill and by this time, Tina’s feet were sore from all the cobblestone walkways and roads of three days, so the traditional day of rest took on additional meaning for us.

On Moday we were off to Kruje, home of Skenderbeg. It is only an hour and half to the castle and we got there in time to go through the museum before they closed for lunch at 1:00pm. To get into the castle, there is a fee, but if you speak to the ticket collector in Albanian, he only charges you the resident’s price. Carol has been there often enough he recognizes her but she was unable to be with us on this trip, so the speaking fell to Criss. It was full price until he said Carol says hello (in Albanian) and then the guide remembered the American whose husband wore the hat and we got the discount.

The best thing of this site is the guide at ethnographic museum. As he takes you through the old 1700s home, he demonstrates how they used all the equipment. The pictures tell the best story.

Grinding the corn or wheat.

Preparing leather for shoes.

Still for making raki.

Mill for crushing olives.

The last day was packing and picking up souvenirs. The only travel problem occurred when we got to the airport. Criss made the mistake of telling our Albanian friend the time of the flight. They refuse to get the airport early and after a late departure and slow drive, we did not get to the counter until 30 minutes before departure. The counter was closing and apparently they had given Tina’s seat away to the Italian soccer team returning home. After a bit of discussion and several apologies from us, they put Tina on the plane in business class. We think the discussion was whether to upgrade a soccer player or Tina, but since the Italian soccer team had beaten Albania that day, Tina gets the upgrade. Our Albanian still refuses to acknowledge that we were late; there was plenty of time he still says.